Japan is a country of extreme contrasts. One minute you’re sweating through your underwear on a mountain hike in 25-degree heat, the next you’re at the base of Mount Fuji, allegedly, staring into a white void of betrayal and existential dread. Somewhere beyond the blizzard is the famous mountain, but I might as well have…
They say the journey matters more than the destination. But those people have clearly never taken a perfectly good bus to the Kumano Nachi-Taisha Shrine. Yes, I “cheated.” No, I do not feel bad. Because the second I stepped off that bus, I was smacked in the face by the most jaw-dropping sight in all…
Morning in Japan is starting to feel like a religious experience. Another amazing breakfast, this time handcrafted by Aki, my guesthouse host Guest House Kiyohime—eggs cooked to perfection, crispy toast, creamy yogurt, and a hash brown so good it should be illegal. If this is what mornings always tasted like, I’d be a morning person….
I’m a 50+ year-old with a backside so rotund it could have its own postal code, body held together by enough K-tape to mummify a small horse. And yet, here I am, still walking. If I can do this, anyone can. This morning started with what I now recognise as a sweet, smiling lie from…
Woke up leisurely — because I’m on pilgrimage, not parole — packed my suitcase, and shipped it ahead like a dignified traveler who refuses to carry unnecessary weight (because that’s what my emotional baggage is for). Caught the 0910 bus to Takijiri-Oji, the gateway to the Kumano Kudo, a World Heritage pilgrimage trail. Sounds serene,…
Buying a train ticket in Japan is an adventure in itself — three different colour-coded machines, each seemingly requiring a degree in cryptography. After a bit of button-mashing and soul-searching, I finally secured my ticket and made my way to Tanabe, the gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Checked into @Shin Kumano Guest House, a…
Woke up at 0500 to a symphony of alarms that weren’t mine. Thanks, fellow travelers. Nothing like an unsolicited wake-up call to kick off an overambitious day of sightseeing. Nara Park: First stop — ancient temples, stunning scenery, and… bowing deer? Yes, the deer bow for cookies. It’s adorable. Until it isn’t. Give one a…
Checked out of my dinosaur hotel this morning — and yes, the velociraptor at reception was as polite as ever. I appreciate a hotel that embraces the “prehistoric reptile meets customer service” aesthetic. Honestly, the robot dino had more warmth than most front desks I’ve dealt with. Then came the train. Japan’s train system is…