They say the journey matters more than the destination. But those people have clearly never taken a perfectly good bus to the Kumano Nachi-Taisha Shrine. Yes, I “cheated.” No, I do not feel bad. Because the second I stepped off that bus, I was smacked in the face by the most jaw-dropping sight in all…
I woke up this morning, and every cell in my body screamed, “YOU. ARE. DONE.” Not in a poetic, enlightened way—more like a “you just got hit by a small truck and then reverse-rolled over by a bus full of overeager pilgrims” kind of way. Crawling to the toilet on all fours, I considered just…
Morning in Japan is starting to feel like a religious experience. Another amazing breakfast, this time handcrafted by Aki, my guesthouse host Guest House Kiyohime—eggs cooked to perfection, crispy toast, creamy yogurt, and a hash brown so good it should be illegal. If this is what mornings always tasted like, I’d be a morning person….
Woke up leisurely — because I’m on pilgrimage, not parole — packed my suitcase, and shipped it ahead like a dignified traveler who refuses to carry unnecessary weight (because that’s what my emotional baggage is for). Caught the 0910 bus to Takijiri-Oji, the gateway to the Kumano Kudo, a World Heritage pilgrimage trail. Sounds serene,…
Buying a train ticket in Japan is an adventure in itself — three different colour-coded machines, each seemingly requiring a degree in cryptography. After a bit of button-mashing and soul-searching, I finally secured my ticket and made my way to Tanabe, the gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. Checked into @Shin Kumano Guest House, a…